Part 2. 2. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Dogstooth’ and Variants A simple listing of all instances of the specific term ‘Dogstooth’ and variants. Note that near relations with hyphens, gaps and apostrophes of the word such as ‘dog-tooth’, ‘dog tooth’ and ‘dog’s tooth’ etc, are included (but not related terms such as ‘hounds-tooth’, ‘hound’s tooth’ etc of which I compile its own separate listing). Faux associations: The venom clamours of a jealous woman poison more deadly than a mad dog's tooth (Shakespeare, The Comedy of Errors) The erythronium, or dog's tooth violet (many references), … is the most perfect Norman dog-tooth arch that is known to exist. The bodice was mounted on to a round yoke with tiny dog-tooth points, and … … also a fine grotto of dogtooth crystals. … or the dog-toothed Wagtail, or some other rare bird … and the dog-tooth snapper, of white, with six transverse dark bands ... These lovely fishes … … try and defend the dogtoothed stronghold of Amba Alajl, … and fierce dog-toothed rocks make up the coast-line, … was like cynodont (dog-toothed) reptiles that closely resembles... * Likely, even almost certainly, used in a different context. ** Included as a faux instance in fashion. 1885? Cornwall Cornishman Thursday, March 26, 1885 (*dog-tooth pattern) NA N.B. As such, despite a fabric reference, I am unsure of the context. As can be seen, it is quite an outlier, and so I reserve judgement on this. 1907 N.B. the same advert appears in the next four papers. Daily Telegraph (Launceston, Tas.) Monday 1 July 1907 p. 1 Advert (*dog’s tooth check tweed) Tr. Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Tuesday 2 July 1907 p. 1 Advert (*dog’s tooth check tweed) Tr. Daily Telegraph (Launceston, Tas.) Thursday 4 July 1907 p. 1 Advert (*dog’s tooth check tweed) Tr. Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Friday 5 July 1907 p. 1 Advert (*dog’s tooth check tweed) Tr. The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 8 July 1907 p. 12 Advert (*dog tooth checks) Tr. 1910 The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Monday 14 March 1910 p. 12 Advert (*dog-tooth checks) Tr. The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 14 March 1910 p. 12 Advert (*dog tooth checks) Tr. The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 25 April 1910 p. 12 Advert (*Dog tooth check) Tr. 1912 London Standard Monday, December 2, 1912 (*dog-tooth pattern) FAUX N.B. Non-fabric context NA 1913 Hutchinson News Saturday, March 8, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) (the first US reference) NA Ogden Examiner Saturday, March 8, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) NA Salt Lake Tribune Sunday, March 9, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) NA Lincoln Daily Star Sunday, March 9, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) NA Bakersfield Californian Monday, March 10, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) NA Waterloo Evening Courier Wednesday, March 12, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) NA Joplin Daily Globe Sunday, March 16, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) NA Janesville Daily Gazette, Wednesday, March 19, 1913 (dog tooth patterns) NA The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 18 August 1913 p. 12 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Monday 25 August 1913 p. 6 Advert Tr. 1914 The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Monday 16 February 1914 p. 16 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Monday 2 March 1914 p. 16 Advert Tr. The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 2 March 1914 p. 12 Advert Tr. Freeman's Journal (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 5 March 1914 p. 22 Advert Tr. The Farmer and Settler (Sydney, NSW) Friday 6 March 1914 p. 8 Article Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Saturday 7 March 1914 p. 29 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Monday 9 March 1914 p. 14 Advert Tr. The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 9 March 1914 p. 12 Advert Tr. Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Saturday 14 March 1914 p. 7 Advert Tr. The Daily News (Perth, WA) Tuesday 24 March 1914 p. 6 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Wednesday 25 March 1914 p. 26 Advert Tr. The Bathurst Times (NSW) Wednesday 25 March 1914 p. 3 Advert Tr. The West Australian (Perth, WA) Wednesday 25 March 1914 p. 6 Advert Tr. The Bathurst Times (NSW) Thursday 26 March 1914 p. 3 Advert Tr. National Advocate (Bathurst, NSW) Thursday 26 March 1914 p. 5 Advert Tr. The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Friday 27 March 1914 p. 16 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Friday 27 March 1914 p. 18 Advert Tr. The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 30 March 1914 p. 12 Advert Tr. The Express and Telegraph (Adelaide, SA) Monday 30 March 1914 p. 2 Advert Tr. National Advocate (Bathurst, NSW) Friday 3 April 1914 p. 5 Advert Tr. The Bathurst Times (NSW) Monday 6 April 1914 p. 3 Advert Tr. The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 6 April 1914 p. 16 Advert Tr. National Advocate (Bathurst, NSW) Monday 6 April 1914 p. 5 Advert Tr. The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Wednesday 8 April 1914 p. 24 Advert Tr. The Maitland Daily Mercury (NSW) Wednesday 15 April 1914 p. 8 Advert Tr. The West Australian (Perth, WA) Wednesday 22 April 1914 p. 6 Advert Tr. The West Australian (Perth, WA) Thursday 23 April 1914 p. 6 Advert Tr. The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Friday 24 April 1914 p. 16 Advert Tr. The West Australian (Perth, WA) Friday 24 April 1914 p. 6 Advert Tr. The Bathurst Times (NSW) Friday 24 April 1914 p. 2 Article Tr. The Maitland Weekly Mercury (NSW) Saturday 25 April 1914 p. 11 Article Illustrated Tr. The West Australian (Perth, WA) Saturday 25 April 1914 p. 10 Advert Tr. The West Australian (Perth, WA) Monday 27 April 1914 p. 6 Advert Tr. To be continued? (Australia references, of which there are an overwhelming number!) 1925 Derbyshire Advertiser and Journal Friday 3 July 1925 Article p. 2 VERIFY. BNA 1926 Daily Kennebec Journal Saturday, August 7, 1926 1927 The Bystander Wednesday 20 April 1927 Illustrated Pp: 59, 60, 62 (the first UK reference) BNA 1929 Britannia and Eve Sunday 1 December 1929, p. 12 Advert BNA 1930 Bath Chronicle and Weekly Gazette, Saturday 10 May 1930, p. 15 (*dogtooth) BNA Western Mail, 15 November 1930, p. 9 (dogtooth) BNA 1931 Madison Capital Times Sunday, August 2, 1931 (*dog’s tooth) NA Southern Reporter, Thursday 20 August 1931, p. 3 (dogtooth) BNA Southern Reporter, Thursday 3 September 1931, p. 3 (dogtooth) BNA 1932 Lawrence Journal World Wednesday, September 14, 1932 (*Dog tooth suiting with checks) NA Western Mail, Saturday 3 December 1932, p. 3 (dogtooth) BNA 1933 Liverpool Echo, Monday 27 February 1933, pp. 7-8 (dogtooth) BNA Sheffield Independent, Monday 13 March 1933, p. 8 (dogtooth) BNA 1934 Bexhill-on-Sea Observer, Saturday 27 January 1934, p. 3 (*dogtooth checks) BNA 1935 Liverpool Echo, Tuesday 1 January 1935, p. 8 (*dogtooth check) BNA Lichfield Mercury, Friday 19 April 1935, p. 3 (dog-tooth check) BNA Britannia and Eve, Sunday 1 September 1935, pp. 60-61 BNA Surrey Mirror, Friday 8 November 1935, p. 16 (dog-tooth check) BNA Liverpool Echo, Monday 18 November 1935, p. 5 (dogtooth) BNA 1936 Liverpool Echo, Wednesday 8 January 1936, p. 11 (*dogtooth checks) BNA Dundee Evening Telegraph, Thursday 12 March 1936, p. 11 (*dog-tooth checks) BNA Kent & Sussex Courier, Friday 24 April 1936, p. 5 (*dog-tooth checks) BNA Birmingham Daily Gazette, Monday 10 August 1936, p. 8 (*dog-tooth check) BNA 1937 St. Andrews Citizen, Saturday 23 January 1937, p. 3 BNA 1938 Birmingham Daily Gazette, Tuesday 15 February 1938, p. 8 BNA 1939 Birmingham Daily Gazette, Thursday 2 February 1939, p. 8 (*dog-tooth check) BNA Selected Winnipeg Free Press Friday, September 5, 1941 (*Dog-tooth checks) (the first Canada reference) NA Abilene Reporter News Sunday, February 22, 1942 (*Dog tooth checks) NA Manitowoc Herald Times Tuesday, June 1, 1943 (*Dogtooth checks) NA Dubuque Telegraph Herald Sunday, October 31, 1943 (*dogtooth checks) NA Hamilton Daily News Journal Monday, February 21, 1944 (*dogtooth checks) NA Chester Times Friday, May 26, 1944 (*dogtooth check) NA Quanah Tribune Chief Thursday, August 10, 1944 (*dog tooth check) NA Wisconsin Rapids Daily Tribune Thursday, October 5, 1944 (*dogtooth check) NA Galveston Daily News Sunday, January 2, 1948 (dogstooth check) NA The Amarillo Globe Tuesday January 4 1949 p. 7 Column (*dogtooth check) NA The Republican Courier Saturday February 7 1949 p. 6 Column (*dogtooth check) NA The Republican Courier Saturday February 12 1949 p. 2 Column (*dogtooth check) NA Daily Express Friday 28 February 1958, p. 9 (*dogtooth) (the first reference to dogtooth in the Daily Express) UKPO Hammond Times Friday, January 10, 1958 p. B4 16 Column (dogstooth) NA Ogdensburg Advance News Sunday, May 7, 1961 (dogstooth) NA
Observations Again what is quite surprising, given an assumed UK dogtooth beginning, is that there is no evidence for this at all! Indeed, Australia is the first reference, of 1907, with numerous references, with so many that I lost count, with US in 1913, New Zealand 1918, with the UK 1925. However, given the Australian links to the UK, the term was surely exported, but if so I cannot find it! In the US it is only known as dogtooth, rather than dogstooth, which has no entries at all! The term then really took off in 1914 in, naturally enough, Australia. 3. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Chicken’s Foot’ and Variants A simple listing of all instances of the specific term, ‘chicken foot’, seemingly derived from French term ‘Pied de Poule’. Note that near relations such as ‘chicken’s foot, ‘chicken-foot’, ‘chicken feet’ (the last rare) are included (but not related terms of the same root, such as ‘pied de poule’, ‘pied de poulet’ etc, of which I compile its own separate listing). Faux references: “Chicken-foot" type of fork was realised by Listers Numerous poultry references. 1893? Western Mail (Perth, WA) Saturday 5 August 1893 p. 49 Article (chicken’s foot) Tr. Patte de Poule - Translates to hens paw The moment it is not what the dressmakers' jargon styles " genrense." There is an odd 1897 Macon Republican Friday, May 21, 1897 p. 4 (*chicken foot check) (the first US reference) NA 1910 Washington Post Sunday, June 26, 1910 p. 6 article (*chicken foot check) NA Winnipeg Tribune Saturday, August 27, 1910 (*chicken foot) (the first Canada reference) NA Winnipeg Free Press Saturday, August 27, 1910 (*chicken foot) NA Van Wert Daily Bulletin Friday, September 2, 1910 (*chicken-foot) NA Washington Post Sunday, October 2, 1910 (*chicken-foot) NA Washington Democrat Wednesday, October 12, 1910 (*chicken foot-check) NA London Monitor and New Era Saturday, October 29, 1910 (the first UK reference) (*chicken foot broken check) Janesville Daily Gazette Wednesday, November 2, 1910 (*chicken foot checks) NA 1911 Frederick Evening Post Saturday, March 18, 1911 (*chicken-foot checks) NA Telluride Daily Journal Monday, March 20, 1911 (*chicken foot checks) NA Monroe News Star Thursday, March 23, 1911 (*chicken foot checks) NA Sandusky Star Journal Wednesday, March 29, 1911 (*chicken foot checks) NA Philadelphia Inquirer Tuesday, April 4, 1911 (*chicken-foot plaid) NA Morning Herald Friday, June 2, 1911 (*chicken foot checks) NA Hagerstown Morning Herald Friday, June 2, 1911 (*chicken foot check?) NA 1912 Hagerstown Morning Herald Wednesday, January 10, 1912 (*chicken foot checks) NA Washington Post Sunday, February 18, 1912 (*chicken foot) NA Joplin News Herald Friday, March 1, 1912 (*chicken foot check) NA Centralia Evening Sentinel Saturday, March 2, 1912 (*chicken foot check) NA Olean Times Saturday, March 2, 1912 (*chicken foot check?) NA Medicine Hat News Saturday, March 2, 1912 (*chicken foot check) NA Dubuque Telegraph Herald Sunday, March 3, 1912 (*chicken foot) NA Telluride Daily Journal Wednesday, March 6, 1912 (*chicken foot) NA 1914 Syracuse Herald Monday, February 16, 1914 (*chicken foot) NA East Liverpool Evening Review Thursday, February 19, 1914 (*chicken foot check) NA Boston Post Thursday, February 26, 1914 (*chicken foot check) NA Canton Daily News Sunday, March 1, 1914 (*chicken foot check) NA Chester Times Wednesday, March 11, 1914 (*chicken foot check) NA Lebanon Daily News Friday, April 3, 1914 (*chicken foot) NA Philadelphia Inquirer Saturday, April 4, 1914 (*chicken foot checks) NA Kingston Daily Freeman Wednesday, April 29, 1914 (*chicken foot check) NA Canton Daily News Sunday, December 6, 1914 (*chicken feet check) (seemingly the first reference to chicken’s feet) NA 1923 The Argus (Melbourne, Vic), Tuesday 31 July 1923, p. 12 Article Illustrated (*chickens foot) Tr. The Argus (Melbourne, Vic), Wednesday 15 August 1923, p. 21 (*chicken foot) Tr. The Age (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 27 October 1923 p. 17 (*chicken foot) Advert Tr. 1924 The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 26 January 1924 p. 5 (*chicken foot)Tr. The Age (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 26 January 1924 p. 15 (*chicken foot) Tr. The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 26 July 1924 p. 9 (*chicken foot)Tr. 1926 Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Saturday 6 November 1926 p. 2 (*chicken’s foot designs) Tr. 1927 The Dubbo Liberal and Macquarie Advocate (NSW) Friday 4 March 1927 p. 7 Tr. Dundee Courier, Thursday 21 April 1927, p. 1 (chicken’s foot) BNA 1930 Chronicle (Adelaide, SA) Thursday 1 May 1930 p. 66 Tr. 1932 The Tatler, Wednesday 10 February 1932, pp. 44, 48 (chicken foot) BNA 1933 The Sheffield Daily Independent, Monday 13 March 1933, p. 8 (chicken’s foot) BNA Santa Cruz Sentinel (US) 14 April 1933 p. 5 CA Montana Butte Standard Monday, April 17, 1933 (*chickens foot) NA The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 29 April 1933 p. 9 Tr. South Haven Daily Tribune Monday, May 1, 1933 column (*chicken foot weave) NA N.B. The same story appears in short succession in numerous papers, not listed on account of repeats The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Friday 19 May 1933 p. 12 Tr. News (Adelaide, SA) Saturday 27 May 1933 p. 6 Tr. The Courier and Advertiser, Monday May 29 1933, p. 12 (chicken’s foot) Tr. Clare County Cleaver (US) 16 June 1933 p. 3 Tr. The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Thursday 22 June 1933 p. 15 Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Friday 23 June 1933 p. 14 Tr. Bucklin Herald Friday, June 23, 1933, NA The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Tuesday 27 June 1933 p. 3 Tr. Liverpool Echo, Tuesday 27 June 1933, p. 9 (chicken’s foot) BNA Wiltshire Times and Trowbridge Advertiser, Saturday 1 July 1933, p. 9 (chicken’s foot) BNA The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 1 July 1933 p. 8 Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Sunday 2 July 1933 p. 9 Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 8 July 1933 p. 8 Tr. The Age (Melbourne, Vic.) Friday 14 July 1933 p. 7 Article Illustrated Tr. The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Monday 17 July 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Friday 28 July 1933 p. 15 Advert Tr. Kalgoorlie Miner (WA) Tuesday 1 August 1933 p. 2 Article Tr. Kalgoorlie Miner (WA) Tuesday 1 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. Kalgoorlie Miner (WA) Thursday 3 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 3 August 1933 p. 23 Advert Tr. The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Friday 4 August 1933 p. 24 Advert Tr. The Australian Women's Weekly Saturday 5 August 1933 p. 4 Article Tr. The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 5 August 1933 p. 9 Advert Tr. Western Argus (Kalgoorlie, WA) Tuesday 8 August 1933 p. 7 Article Tr. Glenelg Guardian (SA ) Wednesday 9 August 1933 p. 2 Advert Tr. The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Thursday 10 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld.) Thursday 10 August 1933 p. 5 Advert Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 10 August 1933 p. 23 Advert Tr. The Mail (Adelaide, SA) Saturday 12 August 1933 p. 1 Article Illustrated Tr. The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Monday 14 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. Catholic Freeman's Journal (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 17 August 1933 p. 26 Article Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 17 August 1933 p. 29 Advert Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 17 August 1933 p. 23 Advert Tr. The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Thursday 17 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. News (Adelaide, SA) Thursday 17 August 1933 p. 10 Advert Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW Thursday 17 August 1933 p. 7 Advert Tr. The West Wyalong Advocate (NSW) Friday 18 August 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr. The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Friday 18 August 1933 p. 19 Advert Tr. The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Monday 21 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Tuesday 22 August 1933 p. 5 Advert Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 24 August 1933 p. 25 Advert Tr. Advocate (Burnie, Tas.) Thursday 24 August 1933 p. 5 Article Tr. The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Friday 25 August 1933 p. 15 Advert Tr. The Labor Daily (Sydney, NSW) Friday 25 August 1933 p. 4 Advert Tr. The West Wyalong Advocate (NSW) Friday 25 August 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr. Port Lincoln Times (SA) Friday 25 August 1933 p. 5 Advert Tr. Folkestone, Hythe, Sandgate & Cheriton Herald, Saturday 26 August 1933, p. 3 (chicken foot) The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Monday 28 August 1933 p. 23 Advert Tr. The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Monday 28 August 1933 p. 7 Advert Tr. The Mercury (Hobart, Tas.) Tuesday 29 August 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr. The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Wednesday 30 August 1933 p. 19 Article Illustrated Tr. The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Wednesday 30 August 1933 p. 9 Advert Tr. Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Wednesday 30 August 1933 p. 3 Article Illustrated Tr. The Courier-Mail (Brisbane, Qld.) Wednesday 30 August 1933 p. 19 Article Illustrated Tr. Table Talk (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 31 August 1933 p. 24 Article Illustrated Tr. The Courier-Mail (Brisbane, Qld.) Thursday 31 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Thursday 31 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. Recorder (Port Pirie, SA) Thursday 31 August 1933 p. 2 Article Tr. The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Monday 4 September 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Tuesday 5 September 1933 p. 7 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Tuesday 5 September 1933 p. 2 Advert Tr. Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Wednesday 6 September 1933 p. 11 Article Illustrated Tr. News (Adelaide, SA) Wednesday 6 September 1933 p. 8 Article Tr. The Courier-Mail (Brisbane, Qld.) Wednesday 6 September 1933 p. 22 Article Tr. The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld.) Thursday 7 September 1933 p. 6 Article Illustrated Tr. The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld.) Thursday 7 September 1933 p. 6 Article Illustrated Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 7 September 1933 p. 18 Advert Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 7 September 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 7 September 1933 p. 21 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald) Friday 8 September 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr. The Daily News (Perth) Friday 8 September 1933 p. 8 Advert Tr. The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Friday 8 September 1933 p. 13 Advert Tr. Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Friday 8 September 1933 p. 13 Article Illustrated Tr. The West Australian (Perth, WA) Saturday 9 September 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. The West Australian (Perth, WA) Monday 11 September 1933 p. 15 Advert Tr. The Mercury (Hobart, Tas.) Tuesday 12 September 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr. The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Tuesday 12 September 1933 p. 13 Article Tr. Newcastle Morning Herald and Miners' Advocate (NSW) Tuesday 12 September 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Tuesday 12 September 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr. The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Wednesday 13 September 1933 p. 15 Article Illustrated Tr. Advocate (Burnie, Tas.) Wednesday 13 September 1933 p. 2 Advert Tr. News (Adelaide, SA) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 4 Advert Tr. Wickepin Argus (WA) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 4 Advert Tr. Southern Argus (Port Elliot, SA) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr. Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 10 Article Illustrated Tr. Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 10 Article Illustrated Tr. Advocate (Burnie, Tas.) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 2 Advert Tr. Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 11 Article Illustrated Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 3 Advert Tr. 1934 Sunderland Daily Echo and Shipping Gazette, Tuesday 6 February 1934, p. 6 (*chicken’s foot) BNA 1935 The Tatler, Wednesday 6 March 1935, p. 107 (*chicken-foot plaid) BNA 1939 Bristol Evening Post, Wednesday 8 February 1939, p. 3 (*chicken-foot) BNA Selected, beyond the date range above None so far. Faux/Queried Notes Sikeston Standard Tuesday, September 2, 1930 p. 1 (chickens foot?) the snippet given, although indeed in the context of fashion, does not correlate to the page, where chicken foot in used in another sense! NA
Observations Again what is quite surprising, given an assumed UK beginning, is that there is no evidence for this at all! Indeed, Australia is once again the first reference, of 1893 (with reservation) or more definitely of 1923, with numerous references, US of 1897, Canada and UK of 1910. Further, noticable is the sheer extent of the Australian references, which abound, much more so than other countries. 4. Specific Instances of the (French) Term ‘Pied de Poule’ and Variants A simple listing of all instances of the specific (French) term ‘pied de poule’ and variants. Note that near relations with gaps and apostrophes of the word such as ‘Pied-de-Poule’, ‘Pied de Poulet’, ‘Pied de Coq’, ‘Pieds de Poule’ are included (but not related English translated terms such as ‘chicken’s foot’, ‘hen’s foot’ etc, of which I compile its own separate listing). Western Mail (Perth, WA) Saturday 5 August 1893 p. 49 Article (*Patte de Poule) Tr. N.B. As such, I have reservations as to this entry, despite it appearing in a fashion/fabric context. First, rather than the more usual ‘pied de poule’ it’s ‘patte de poule’ (chicken’s paw). This is the only such terminology, although there is indeed one other reference, but not in fashion/fabric. Second, it’s such an outlier of Australia in particular as regards pied de poule, with the next 1930. What to make of it? Third, the term, being French, must surely have begun in France. Le Monde Artiste 14 August 1894, p. 461 (*patte de poule) Gall. En damier noir et blanc, patte de poule, garnie de moire noire, un robe sera charmante Checkerboard black and white, hen's paws, topped with black moire a dress will be charming 1894 Le Journal 16 June 1894 (the first French reference) Gall. Journal de Fourmies (from 1876-1939). 21 June 1894 p. 3 (N.B. The only reference in this newspaper) Gall. Het Nieuws van den dag van Maandag 8 October 1894, p. 20 (first Netherlands reference) De. Le Petit Troyen 20 October 1894 Gall. Het Nieuws van den dag van Maandag 22 October 1894, p. 20 De. Het Nieuws van den dag van Maandag 12 November 1894, p. ? De. Het Nieuws van den dag van Maandag 3 December 1894, p. ? De. Het Nieuws van den dag van Maandag 17 December 1894, p. ? De. 1895 Le Rappel 2 June 1895 p. 3 (*pieds de poule) Gall. 1896 Les Annales Politiques et Littéraires 9 August 1896 Gall. 1897 Galveston Daily News Sunday, February 21, 1897 p. 8 (*Pied de Poule) (the first US reference) NA The Raleigh Daily Tribune Tuesday, March 2, 1897 p. 5 VERIFY NA News and Observer Friday March 5 1897 p. 8 (*Pied de Poule) Ne VERIFY NA 1898 La Gazette Algérienne. 16 July 1898 p. 2 (the only instance of this paper) Gall. 1901 Bulletin de la Société archéologique du Midi de la France (1869-1974) 19 November 1901 Gall. The same advert also appears in 25 November 1901 1902 Bulletin de la Société archéologique du Midi de la France 25 November 1902 Gall. 1906 Daily Telegraph & Courier (London), Saturday 29 September 1906, pp. 4-5 (*pied de poule) (the first UK reference) BNA 1910 Textile Review April 1910 p. 21 (pieds de poule) Gall. Arnhemsche Courant 2 April 1910 De. Le Matin 10 April 1910 (*pied de poule) Gall. Le Radical (Paris began 1881) 24 April 1910 (the first of only two references in this paper) Gall. Comoedia (Paris, began 1907) 24 April 1910 p. 5 (the first of many references in this paper) Gall. La Lanterne 25 April 1910 (the first and only reference in this paper) Gall. Gil Blas 1 May 1910 p. 4 (Four references in this paper) Gall. Le Radical (Paris began 1881) 1 May 1910 p. 8 (*pied de poule) Figaro 1910 1 May (1854-) p. 8 (the first of 38 references in this paper) Gall. A Gazette de Château-Gontier 5 May 1910 (the first of only two references in this paper) Gall. Helena Independent Record Sunday, August 21, 1910 p. 11 Column NA (*pied de poule) N.B. the same column appears in eight other papers NA St Johns Evening Telegram Tuesday, August 23, 1910 (*pied de poule) (the first Canadian reference) NA The Enterprise 15 September 1910 p. 7 Record Journal of Douglas 16 September 1910 South Haven Daily Tribune Monday, September 19, 1910 (*pied de poule) NA Barbour County Index 21 September 1910 p. 3 The Columbus Journal (US) 21 September 1910 p. 6 Delphos Daily Herald Monday, September 26, 1910 (*pied de poule) NA Oelwein Daily Register Monday, September 26, 1910 (*pied de poule) NA San Antonio Light and Gazette Wednesday, September 28, 1910 (*pied de poule) NA Goshen Daily Democrat Thursday, September 29, 1910 (*pied de poule) NA Le Matin (Paris began 1884) 4 October 1910 p. 6 (the first of 73 references from this paper) Gall. The Palco News Thursday, October 6, 1910 p. 4 (*pied de poule) Ne Hope Penasco Valley Press Friday, October 14, 1910 NA (*pied de poule) Winnipeg Free Press Saturday, October 15, 1910 (*pied de poule) NA Lincoln County Leader (US) 28 October 1910 p. 2 Creston Review Friday, November 4, 1910 (Canada) (*pied de poule) NA 1911 Logansport Reporter Monday, May 8, 1911 NA 1912 Le XIXe siècle, 10 June 1912, p. 3 Gall. Le XIXe siècle, 21 June 1912, p. 3 Gall. Le XIXe siècle, 28 June 1912, p. 3 Gall. L'Action Française 26 May 1912 p. 3 (*patte de poule) Gall. 1932 Faux? calleuse et noir comme une patte de poule callous and black like a hen's paw 1913 The San Francisco Call. 10 April 1913 p. 16 1914 Philadelphia Inquirer Monday, February 2, 1914 NA Syracuse Herald Monday, February 16, 1914 NA 1926 The Annals of Politics and Literature: 21 March 1926 Gall. Femina, March 1926 p. 28 (the first reference in Femina) (*pied de poule) Gall. Britannia and Eve, Wednesday 16 June 1926, p. 20 (*pied de poule) BNA Bredasche Courant 19 June 1926 De. Oor Vroven en Huis 25 June 1926 De. The New York Times Aug. 1, 1926 (the first reference in NYT). NYT VERIFY Rotterdamsch newspaper 3 September 1926 De. Femina, August,1926 p. 99 (*pied de poule) Gall. 1928 Femina, pp. 140, 366, 400 (*pied de poule) Gall. 1929 Femina, p. 229 Gall. 1930 Chronicle (Adelaide, SA) Thursday 1 May 1930 p. 66 Article (the first Australian reference) Tr. 1931 Femina, March, p. 103 Gall. Le Journal, 16 June, 1931, p. 4 Gall. 1932 January, p. 87 L'Intransigeant 1932 Faux? calleuse et noir comme une patte de poule = callous and black like a hen's paw 1933 News (Adelaide, SA) Saturday 27 May 1933 p. 6 Article Tr. The West Australian (Perth, WA) Tuesday 6 June 1933 p. 4 Article Illustrated Tr. Coventry Evening Telegraph, Monday 12 June 1933, pp. 2-3 (*pied-de-poule) BNA Queensland Figaro (Brisbane, Qld.) Saturday 5 August 1933 p. 13 Article Illustrated Tr. Northern Star (Lismore, NSW) Wednesday 16 August 1933 p. 12 Advert Tr. The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Saturday 19 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Monday 21 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Friday 25 August 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Daily News (Perth, WA) Saturday 26 August 1933 p. 19 Article Illustrated (pied de poulet)Tr. The Age (Melbourne, Vic.) Friday 1 September 1933 p. 7 Article Illustrated Tr. Truth (Brisbane, Qld.) Sunday 3 September 1933 p. 19 Advert Tr. The Courier-Mail (Brisbane, Qld.) Tuesday 5 September 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld.) Wednesday 6 September 1933 p. 5 Advert Tr. Western Mail (Perth, WA) Thursday 21 September 1933 p. 26 Article Tr. Western Mail (Perth, WA) Thursday 21 September 1933 p. 28 Article Tr. The West Australian (Perth, WA) Friday 22 September 1933 p. 7 Article Tr. The Daily News (Perth, WA) Tuesday 10 October 1933 p. 9 Article Illustrated Tr. Femina, p. 18 Gall. Femina, p. 30 Gall. 1934 The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Monday 1 January 1934 p. 7 Advert Tr. Liverpool Echo, Friday 2 February 1934, pp. 9-10 (*pied-de-poule) BNA Belfast Telegraph (NI), Friday 2 February 1934, p.10 (*pied-de-poule) BNA The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld.) Saturday 3 February 1934 p. 4 Article (pied de poulet) Tr. The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld.) Tuesday 6 March 1934 p. 6 Article Illustrated Tr. The Week (Brisbane, Qld.) Wednesday 14 March 1934 p. 6 Article Illustrated Tr. Femina, p. 14 Gall. 1935 Liverpool Echo, Thursday 24 October 1935, p. 12 (*pied-de-poule) BNA Femina, April, p. 22 Gall. Femina, June, p. 31 Gall. Femina, September, p. 33 Gall. Femina, December, p. 106 Gall The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld) Tuesday 17 December 1935 p. 19 Article Tr. 1936 The Age (Melbourne, Vic.) Wednesday 18 November 1936 p. 19 Article Illustrated Tr. 1937 Femina, April, p. 22 Gall. Femina, May, p. 20 Gall. Femina, July, p. 96 Gall. Femina, September, p. 25 Gall. 1938 Liverpool Echo, Wednesday 14 September 1938, pp. 9-10 BNA Femina, December, p. 74 Gall. Examine (Launceston, Tas) Wednesday 31 August 1938 p 7 Article Illustrated Tr. The Irvington Gazette 1 September 1938 p. 4 The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld) Tuesday 13 September 1938 p 19 Article Illustrated Tr. 1939 Evening Despatch, Friday 3 February 1939, p. 10 BNA Belfast Telegraph (NI), Friday 24 February 1939, p. 14 (*pied-de-poule checks) BNA Evening Despatch, Friday 14 July 1939, p. 14 (*pied-de-poule checked) BNA Selected, beyond the date range above 1973 The Guardian April 10 1973 p. 13 (*pied-de-poule) (the first (and only!) reference in The Guardian Ne.
Observations Again, all quite surprising! The first reference, given the French expression, perhaps not unsurprisingly is that from France, but what is noteworthy is the early date of the references, beginning 1894, and perhaps even earlier! At face value, France began houndstooth under this name (pied de poule)! But how can this be so? It does not make sense. Interestingly, in other countries it also appears early, with the US 1897, UK 1906. Oddly, it first appeared in Australia as late as 1930! The term is little used in the US, despite an early appearance. Another oddity is the occasional references to Scotland, in which credit is given to this country as the source, albeit if so, I cannot find this in UK or Scotland papers! 5. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Puppytooth’ and Variants A simple listing of all instances of the specific term ‘puppytooth’ and variants with spaces and apostrophes, such as puppy tooth, puppy-tooth etc. 1951 The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 25 January 1951 p. 17 Article (*puppy-tooth check) (the first Australian reference) Tr. Adelaide Advertiser Friday, January 26, 1951, Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Wednesday 14 March 1951 p. 13 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 24 May 1951 p. 12 Article Illustrated (*puppy-tooth check) Tr. Daily Mirror Tuesday 6 November 1951 p. 6 (puppy tooth) (the first UK reference) BNA 1952 The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Friday 11 January 1952 p. 11 Article (*puppytooth check) Tr. The Sketch Wednesday 12 March 1952 Illustrated pp: 43-50 (*puppy-tooth check) BNA The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Tuesday 5 August 1952 p. 6 Advertising (*puppy-tooth checks) Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Monday 18 August 1952 p. 9 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr. Daily Mercury (Mackay, Qld.) Saturday 30 August 1952 p. 11 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr. The Armidale Express and New England General Advertiser (NSW) Monday 1 September 1952 p. 3 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr. Burra Record (SA) Tuesday 2 September 1952 p. 6 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr. Goulburn Evening Post (NSW) Wednesday 3 September 1952 p. 6 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr. The Dubbo Liberal and Macquarie Advocate (NSW) Thursday 4 September 1952 p. 4 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr. Daily Examiner (Grafton, NSW) Friday 5 September 1952 p. 5 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr. Daily Advertiser (Wagga Wagga, NSW) Monday 8 September 1952 p. 2 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr. The Advertiser (Adelaide, SA) Tuesday 9 September 1952 p. 13 Article (*puppytooth navy and white check) Tr. The Horsham Times (Vic.) Friday 12 September 1952 p. 2 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr. Maryborough Chronicle (Qld.) Monday 29 September 1952 p. 4 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr. The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 8 November 1952 p. 7 Advertising (*puppy-tooth check) Tr. Coventry Evening Telegraph Thursday 13 November 1952 Article p. 7 (*puppy-tooth design) BNA Illawarra Daily Mercury (Wollongong, NSW) Thursday 27 November 1952 p. 13 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth check) Tr. 1953 Northern Whig (Northern Ireland) Wednesday 14 January 1953 Article p. 2 (*puppy-tooth check) BNA 1954 The Courier-Mail (Brisbane, Qld.) Tuesday 25 May 1954 p. 11 Article Illustrated (*puppytooth) Tr. Border Watch (Mount Gambier, SA) Thursday 10 June 1954 p. 9 Advertising (*puppytooth checks) Tr. 1955 Yass Tribune-Courier (NSW) Monday 4 April 1955 p. 2 Advertising (*puppytooth) Tr. Western Mail Thursday 9 June 1955 Illustrated p. 6 (*puppy-tooth check) BNA 1956 Birmingham Daily Post Monday 22 October 1956 Illustrated p. 7 (*puppy-tooth checks) BNA 1957 Northern Whig (Northern Ireland) Tuesday 5 March 1957 Illustrated p. 2 (*puppytooth) BNA 1958 Liverpool Echo Tuesday 4 February 1958 Article pp. 9, 21(*puppy-tooth checks) BNA Winnipeg Free Press Friday, 25 July, 1958 (puppy-tooth check) Column (Princess Margaret wore) NA 1959 Liverpool Echo Monday 28 September 1959 Illustrated p. 6 (*puppy-tooth check) BNA 1960 Winnipeg Free Press Friday, May 7, 1960 (*puppy-tooth checks) Column) NA Taunton Courier, and Western Advertiser Saturday 3 September 1960 Advert (*puppytooth check) BNA The Biz (Fairfield, NSW.) Wednesday 13 December 1961 p. 3 Advertising (*puppytooth checks) Tr. Parrametta Cumberland Argus Wednesday March 1 1961 p. 2 Advert (*puppy tooth check slacks) NA 1962 Winnipeg Free Press Friday, Thursday August 16, 1962 (*puppy-tooth) (Column) NA 1964 Corpus Christi Times Tuesday, March 24, 1964 (*puppy tooth) (the first US reference) NA Liverpool Echo Wednesday 8 July 1964 Article p. 26 (*puppy-tooth check) NA Mount Carmel Daily Republican Register Wednesday, April 16, 1980 p. 17 (*puppytooth checks) NA Syracuse Herald Journal Thursday, December 1, 1988 NA
Observations As can be seen, puppytooth (said to be the same but smaller in scale to houndstooth, although to what degree is typically not made clear) is a latter-day description, first recorded in 1951 in Australia and the UK. The term is little used in the US, of just four distinct references, with the first appearance in 1964. 6. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Pepita’ and Variants A simple listing of all instances of the specific term ‘pepita check’ and variants of the word such as ‘pepita checks’ and ‘checked pepita’. Possibly the term is more prevalent than otherwise shown. Searching is only practical in conjunction with the word ‘check’; searching by ‘pepita’ alone brings up too many unrelated entries to survey! Another possibility is to add likely clothing terms, such as Pepita dresses, for instance. Faux references include the singer, off course, and sauce 1889? Del Norte San Juan Prospector Saturday, August 31, 1889 (*pepita dress stripe) NA As such, I have considerable reservations as to this entry, on various counts, despite it seemingly appearing in a fashion/fabric context. First, it’s such an outlier of the term as regards pepita, with the next no less twenty-six years later, of 1915! Second, it has a stripe context; there are no known references to such a presentation. That said, it does indeed appear in a US paper, of which the next references are indeed from. Certainly, from the context and US connection, it is plausible, although doubts remain. What to make of it? I hold judgement. 1915 Evening Times-Republican, April 9, 1915 (Checked Pepita) (the first reference in the US) CA Boston Post Thursday, May 6, 1915 p. 7 (*Pepita Checks) NA Boston Post Friday, May 7, 1915 p.7 (*small Pepita checks and *pepita checks) NA 1916 Boston Post Friday, April 28, 1916 p. 13 (Pepita Checks) NA Boston Post Thursday, August 10 1916 (Pepita Checks) NA 1917 Boston Sunday Globe Sunday, January 7, 1917 p. 39 (*pepita checks) NA 1921? The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Saturday 30 July 1921 p. 13 Advertising. (black pepita) Tr. N.B. I am uncertain that the reference is to pepita. The legiblity is not the best; it may be referring to ‘poplin’ rather than pepita. 1934 Brisbane Telegraph Saturday, September 1, 1934 p. 15 article, illustrated (*A checked pepita dress) NA Brisbane Telegraph Saturday, October 11, 1934 p.18 (*Smart Pepita dress) NA Brisbane Telegraph Saturday, October 31, 1934 p. 16 (*Smart Pepita dress) NA 1936 Brisbane Telegraph Monday, January 27, 1936 NA 1947 The Riverine Herald (Echuca, Vic.) Saturday 22 March 1947 p. 2 Article Illustrated (Pepita Check) (the first confirmed reference in Australia; see 1921 for possible earlier reference) Tr. 1949 Launceston Examiner Tuesday, March 22, 1949 (Pepita Check) N.B. refers to a Germany exhibit, stating pepita is out of date! Tr. and NA Gisborne Herald 16 April 1949 (Pepita Check) (the first and only reference in the Papers Past archive) N.B. refers to a Germany exhibit. PP 1950 The Mercury (Hobart, Tas.) Tuesday 18 July 1950 p. 9 Article Illustrated (Pepita Check) Tr. 1958 Arizona Daily Sun Wednesday, May 7, 1958, p. 5 advert, illustrated (*rayon pepita check) NA Morgantown Dominion News Wednesday, June 11, 1958 p. 5 advert, illustrated (*rayon pepita check) NA 1960 Aberdeen Evening Express Monday 29 February 1960 (Pepita Check) (the first reference in the UK) BNA 1961 Taunton Courier, and Western Advertiser Saturday 18 March 1961 (Pepita Check) BNA Liverpool Echo Friday 3 November 1961 (Pepita Checks) BNA Coventry Evening Telegraph Friday 3 November 1961 (Pepita Checks) BNA 1964 Daily Mirror Wednesday 4 March 1964 (Pepita Check) 1966 De Telegraaf 15 October 1966 Advert. (Pepita Checks) (the first and only distinct reference in the Delpher archive) De. De Telegraaf 10 December 1966 Advert (Pepita Checks) De. (all checked for exact term) Inadvertently Misleading Oakland Tribune Wednesday, December 31, 1902 (Pepita dresses) NOT fabric context NA Table
Observations Of note here is the relative scarcity of the term Pepita. Indeed, there are very few references to the term, with some countries having just one or two references. Possibly there are many more still to be unearthed, but it is difficult/inconvenient finding them! There again, this may indeed be all there is; it is hard to say for sure. When searched for, pepita shows up (surprisingly for such a obscure term) in a myriad of ways; the BNA alone gives 20,000 entries! It is impractical to survey such a large number. However, adding the word ‘check/s’ greatly reduces the above, and of relevancy too. Indeed, although I am sure that there must be references to the single word in the context of fabric/design, it was not found, at least of an initial look. Therefore, I am thus a little wary of this listing as being anywhere near exhaustive, in contrast to others (such as houndstooth). But it is still good…. Background matters aside, the first reference is of the US, of 1915 which is perhaps somewhat surprising! The next reference, many years later, is of Australia, 1947 (albeit possibly there is a earlier 1921 reference), with New Zealand 1949, before, perhaps surprisingly late, the UK, of 1960, and Netherlands, 1966. It is not known in France. Part 2 Table For an at-a-glance view of the data, below I show a Part 2 table of the first instance in print of each of the terms, of the six main countries, namely Australia, France, New Zealand, Netherlands (to a much lesser extent), UK and USA at the beginnings of houndstooth, dogtooth, chicken’s foot, pied de poule and puppytooth and pepita. This is then followed by a discussion of the findings.
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