Keenan, Brigid. Dior in Vogue. Random House Value Pub. 1983 NOT SEEN
On Dior per se.

Lanz, Sherlee. Trianglepoint. From Persian Pavilions to Op Art with One Stitch. The Viking Press 1976 (28 June 1998)

Of note is a truncated houndstooth tiling, titled ‘snowcaps’ colour plate 29 and p. 96 where it is stated ‘woven shawl, nineteenth century, the Sandwich Islands’, which I have seen quoted elsewhere.

Lockwood, E. H. and R. H. Macmillan. Geometric Symmetry. Cambridge University Press, 1978.

Pizzuto, J. J. and P. L. D'Alessandro. 101 Fabrics. Analyses and Textile Dictionary. New York: Textile Press, 1952 (8 April 2019). Viewed online at Hathitrust, seemingly not available as a PDF

From a reference in Grünbaum (Satins and Twills article). The premise is of a illustration of a term (cashmere etc) with a swatch, technical details and then dictionary entry at the end of the book. Popular account. Houndstooth p. 43 Glen Plaid p. 39. Note that no other terms I have studied are included, such as Shepherd’s Check, Border Tartan etc. Useful, convenient reference to the fabric terms in a generalised sense.

Stephenson, C. and F. Suddards. A Text Book Dealing With Ornamental Design For Woven Fabrics. First edition 1897, Methuen & Co. Ltd and Fourth Edition. Methuen & Co. Ltd 1924. N.B. Not seen the first edition but I have the fourth edition as a PDF. (March 2019, PDF)

Very much in the Lewis Day tradition, from a weave perspective. Of most note is p. 16, of Plate III, Fig. 9, of a houndstooth (but not stated as such) in black and white as an counterchange design, and further not as a weave but of the tessellation type. I presume that this is also in the first edition.

Minor instance of Houndstooth, shown as a black and white line drawing, fig. 260 (oddly, there no page numbers in the book). This is simply captioned ‘Hawaii’ without any more details forthcoming, which is in line with the book; the 600-line drawings are sourced from various cultures around the world, all of the same sparse detail as to origin. Likely, given the caption, this is sourced from Owen Jones’ Grammar of Ornament, with p. 15 bearing the same reference (there is no bibliography). However, the drawings slightly differ; Jones is of a square-based, and Wade isometric-based.

- ‘Three Directional Weaving’. Mathematics in School. March 1992, pp. 2-4.

Of general interest.

Grünbaum, B. and G. C. Shephard. ‘Satins and Twills: An Introduction to the Geometry of Fabrics’. Mathematics Magazine. Vol. 53, No. 3 May 1980. 139-161. (13 February 1996, hard copy)

From a reference in Tilings & Patterns. Obtained on the premise of it consisting of ‘popular tiling’. However, somewhat of a let down as regards tiling content, although tiling is indeed shown, but is rather of ‘technical weave matters’, the subject matter being of no real interest of the day. There is no reference to tessellation per se. However, subsequently, in more recent times, of 2019, with a recent interest in houndstooth and related fabric matters, this is once more examined in the new context. In short, Grünbaum and Shephard take the weaving community to task for a lack of rigour, and indeed the mathematical community, for a shortsighted lack of interest, noting that only papers by Lucas (1867, 1880, 1911), Shorter (1920) and Woods (1935) pass any degree of muster. As to be expected, they are considerably more rigorous, with clear definitions. Aside from clarifying standard weaving terms, they also introduce some mathematics that quickly loses me, namely of isonemal and monomenal. Of particular note is their Fig. 5, containing the ‘minimum houndstooth’, although I do not fully understand their premise, of in effect ‘failed fabrics’. Titles such as isonemal and monomenal are introduced, likely of originality on their part (Akelman, 2011, asserts so); again, I do not understand these distinctions, and indeed much of the mathematical discussion. Further, even the weave authority and computer scientist Ralph Griswold is lost as to their term ‘hanging together’! The ambiguous use of satin and sateen is also taken to task.There seems to be some fearsome mathematics underlying isonemal matters. For example, see Bohdan Zelinka’s paper ‘Symmetries of Woven Fabrics’. The various complexities and nuances here, are, at least for now (2019), are put aside. Much time here could otherwise be wasted on matters largely inconsequential to my researches and understanding.

The references list works on fabrics and weaving by Albers, Fox and Hanton, Nisbet, Oelsner, Pizzuto and d’Alessandro, Strong and Watson, of which at the time (1996) I neglected to pursue, being under the impression, from p.? that these were generic instances, of no particular importance, being one of many. However, upon a latter day return (of houndstooth studies, 2019) I now find this not to be so! Grunbaum and Shephard seem to have chosen specially; the books here, some found on cs.arizona.edu, seem to have been selected, of high quality.

Mentions: Nisbet p. 154.

Jakobsson, Josefine Gennert. 'Who's tooth? Houndstooth!'

http://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:1237046/FULLTEXT01.pdf

A very nice paper indeed, of considerable depth (81 pages), liberally illustrated with photographs with a slant towards fashion application and weaving (and more), by Josefine Gennert Jakobsson, with a BA in fashion design, of the University of Borås The Swedish School of Textiles.

Welsh, T. ‘Designing and Coloring of Scotch Tweeds’, Posselt’s Textile Journal, October 12, 1912, pp. 90-91 (29 April 2019)

Reference to Sir Walter Scott and black and white checked trousers, with reference is made to ‘shepherd’s plaid’, presumably equating to shepherd’s check.

From Wikipedia:

Emanuel Anthony Posselt (1858–1921) was an authority on Jacquard looms and weaving. His book on the Jacquard machine is considered to be a classic…. Posselt's Textile Journal that ran between 1907 and 1923.

N. B. On Loe Feijs:

All papers are freely and conveniently available at the Bridges Math Art paper repository; simply put in ‘Feijs’ in the search box:

https://archive.bridgesmathart.org/search.py?search