Introduction An important question as to nomenclature matters is to when and where the term ‘houndstooth’ or its near relation terms ‘hounds-tooth’, ‘hounds tooth’, ‘hound’s tooth’ and synonyms, such as ‘dogtooth’, and its own numerous variations and the synonyms ‘chicken’s foot’ and ‘pied de poule’ (from France), first appeared in print, and as a natural follow-on to this how it spread to select other countries. However, despite seemingly a relatively simple task, this is not a straightforward task as may otherwise be thought! Frequently, what people consider as houndstooth is seemingly sometimes at a whim! I have seen designs, typically in black and white, described as houndstooth, seemingly only so described due to a tentative jagged or colour connection. Further, what is houndstooth to one person is another's dogtooth, chicken’s foot, pied de poule, puppytooth or pepita. And then there a whole host of other descriptions, notably of shepherd’s check, and others too. Typically, the association is not made clear, with images, but is instead simply in text, along the lines of ‘houndstooth, or shepherd’s check….’. Statements are all too frequently made without the source being quoted even by supposed authorities, never mind the hobbyist or blogger. And indeed, there is just plain slipshod research. Indeed, even in such a respected body as the Merriam-Webster dictionary gives incorrect dates for the instigation of houndstooth, namely 1936. Correct is 1925. There must be well over 100+ references prior to 1936, in a variety of countries. What is going on Merriam-Webster? Words fail me…. What an absolute utter shambles all round! In short, vagueness and uncertainty rule. To this end, I thus here attempt to bring a degree of order and clarity, with fully referenced attributions that can be verified. Primarily, this involves newspaper archive searching, of various countries, of which, in modern times, has been made practical by the Internet. Further, to a much lesser extent, but not through a lack of desire, but rather due to convenience, I also examine journals and books. Below I discuss the various archives and background matters, followed by an extensive listing, of the equivalent of a 53-page document! The Newspaper Archives To this end, in the course of my newspaper archive searching, I have ventured further from an obvious UK search, given its supposed (or at least widely stated, although doubts have now emerged) UK source, with the British Newspaper Archive (BNA), United Kingdom Press Online (UKPO) with others nationalities, namely Trove (Australia), Chronicling America (USA), Gallica (France), Papers Past (New Zealand), Delpher (Netherlands) NewspaperArchive.com (US) and Newspapers.com (US). Note that NewspaperArchive.com and Newspapers.com are not always quite of the same degree of accuracy as the others above; incorrect listings infrequently show up at times (as with the OCR reading dates incorrectly, such as 1921 as 1971, and filters still show undesired terms), although not to the detriment of the study rendering these unusable. Specific UK national papers of some standing and substance include: The Guardian (from 1791), The Observer and Daily Express. However, there are much more available than the relatively few as above! Wikipedia gives hundreds! However, it is impractical to search all. That said, not all are of the same degree of substance. Even so, in due course, more will be examined as time permits, although admittedly to a practical level - one could spend a lifetime this! As an aside, these are all truly awesome research tools of recent times, little more than ten years old. All are of capable of multiple paper searching. Further, these sites can now be considered relatively ‘mature’. For instance, the BNA (largely of local papers, rather than of national ones), launched in 2011, is now of 28,900,000 pages, with an addition of 153,000 a week (as of 28 November 2018) with the stated total of up to 40 million newspaper pages to be made available. New titles and full runs of the paper are still being added. Therefore, the study presented here is partial. However, it seems inconceivable (given the depth so far) that as a broad treatment, my listing is fundamentally lacking, save for the occasional minor predating; that here is broadly true in terms of the extent. Books and Journals/Magazines Outlets searched include JSTOR (albeit not with full access to this resource) and Google Books. JSTOR (short for Journal Storage) is a digital library founded in 1995. Originally containing digitized back issues of academic journals, it now also includes books and other primary sources, and current issues of journals. It provides full-text searches of almost 2,000 journals. However, it is a relative disappointment. A search on ‘houndstooth’ gives a mere 167 references, with the oldest being as late as 1962! The variant ‘hounds tooth’ shows many more (1,330) but this include non design/fabric references, with the first design/fabric connection of 1951! Certainly, for historic matters at least, this archive is no use at all. For unclear reasons, when using Google Books spurious references occur, seemingly due to deficiencies of OCR. To give a specific instance, there is a reference to The New Yorker of 1925 with a Pauline Trigère reference, of which I know the name to be from the 1950s! And this is not just an isolated occurrence; numerous other instances can be seen. This being so, I am more than a little wary of categorically attributed such references. For unclear reasons, references to The New Yorker abound. Another plausible instance, from the type face, is that of a Paul Stuart clothing advert, purportedly of 1925. However, I see that Paul Stuart opened in 1938! I don’t understand! Can anyone shed light on these anomalies; this is Google we are talking about, and not some hobbyist! Given such plain wrong attributions, without seeing the whole book in person, I am more than a little wary of relying on these references. For now at least, the jury is out on the first definitive book reference. However, all the indications, whatever it is, are that it is indeed in line with the newspaper accounts, and not earlier. As ever, I am open to suggestions as to other resources to investigate. The Scope and Outline of the Investigation The aim, upon starting out, was of a consistent approach, in which all instances of houndstooth and synonyms are documented. However, what indeed began this way has somewhat lost its way, has diversified and expanded due to the scope of the investigation. Upon beginning with the BNA, I then successively expanded to other, foreign newspapers. However, in general, I lack foreign language skills, and not all of the foreign archives were easy to use. Further, for some entries, for instance (oddly) chicken’s foot, in Australian newspapers alone, there are hundreds of entries of the time range studied (detailed below). Further, I expanded the search, including more obscure references, sometimes of doubtful connection. It is simply overwhelming and exhausting! What began as a short study, of just a ‘day or two’, quickly expanded to many days and weeks, and now months, with no sign of a completion in sight! In short, I have decided to curtail the extent, which largely explains some discrepancies in depth. The study is in four parts, somewhat arbitrarily at times, and open to revision, partly dictated to by Google Sites preference for relatively short pages. The content here, of a 53-page document, is simply not admissible. This being so, I split into four parts: Part 1, solely of Houndstooth. Part 2, where the other five main synonym titles are discerned, namely Dogtooth, Chicken’s Foot, Pied de Poule (the French term), Puppytooth and Pepita. Part 3, where other semi-popular terms are used, with checks, incorrectly or vaguely namely, with Shepherd’s Check/Plaid/Maud/Tartan, Gun Club Check, Prince of Wales Check and Glenurquhart Check. Part 4, less popular terms, namely Border Tartan/Plaid/Drab/Check, Falkirk Tartan, Northumbrian Tartan, Galashiels Grey Star Checks and Crow's Foot. Peripheral References A problem when searching is that unrelated peripheral references occur. The various terms are used to describe unrelated aspects, although of course these can generally be filtered out: Houndstooth is also applied to various sayings, with ‘clean (or sharp) as a hound’s tooth’, grasses (and others) Pied-de-Poule is also applied to botany, with buttercups Chicken’s Foot in used in chicken ailments (and others) Dogtooth is discussed as an architecture ornament (and others) Sifting through all this, even with the aid of filters, still takes time. Further, even within obvious fabric matters, of what may be thought to the exclusion of all others, although houndstooth is associated with fabrics and fashion, ‘dog tooth’ also applies to a (triangular) edging in clothing, and so although obviously close in the same field is unrelated. Typically, the reference is not always illustrated, and so at times uncertainty of intention remains. For instance, with dogtooth, a reference may be to ‘dog tooth patterns.’ At face value, especially in a fabric context, would appear to refer to what is the standard model. However, this isn't necessarily so. Conceivably, and plausibly, it may refer to a jagged edge pattern reminiscent of a dog’s tooth. Therefore trying to second guess a quote at times is fraught with difficulty. Where this happens, I note the ambiguity. The Remit and Range of the Investigation An open question is to the extent of remit/range of the investigation. Although ideally I would include all references of all countries from beginning to the present day, this is simply impractical; there must be (or what feels like) millions! Even for just a single country, this remains impractical. Further, I have been somewhat selective at times on these grounds. For instance, of the main focus, namely houndstooth, I have naturally been more thorough in my listing. Others, of less frequently found descriptions, less so. The general aim is to show when the various terms occured, and with tendencies and trends discerned thereof. As alluded to above, this thus results in some entries being lengthy, or short. On occasions, where some interesting instances occur outside the given date range, I show selected instances. Specifically for houndstooth, somewhat arbitrarily, I tend to end the research for the year of 1939. From its beginning, in 1925,ostensibly in Australia and the UK, of 1930, this thus gives ten-fifteen years from its introduction, of which this is judged sufficient to show when the various terms occured, and with tendencies and trends discerned. Types of References A variety of references are discerned, with articles on fashion matters (in general, by far the most interesting) and adverts. To both, illustrations are also of interest, as they clearly define the terms, although in practise this is not always so, with a drawing at times leaving the meaning still unclear as to intent. Terminology Difficulties Just as with problems of terminology occurs in defining houndstooth and variants, so the same situation arises to references in print. Further, the additional term sometimes applied to this, namely ‘shepherd’s check’ (which dates from 1859) is sometimes used synonymously (and erroneously) for houndstooth, but is not included here. All the five main terms have variants, with a gap in the word, hyphens or apostrophes in various combinations and omissions, detailed below, which complicates matters somewhat. However, I have at least made a start, and of which much new detail has come to light, and of which the various chronologies are put on broad firm foundations, although I make no claim as to an exhaustive, all-encompassing definitive account. Thorough yes, and undoubtedly the best available there is, but there is still room for improvement and more research. Likely, there is the occasional error here, with considerable collated effort involved over different times, but if so this will be a relatively minor error. Nonetheless, the account is of sufficient depth that trends can be clearly discerned. The Listing Presentation of the Entries The entries below are presented under each term, e.g. houndstooth, placed chronologically by year. I begin with the newspaper title, dates, and page number of the publication. Non-UK papers have the source country in brackets after the title. In brackets is the term as given in the paper. This thus shows the favoured spelling (under construction). At the end, each country is shown in a pictorial manner, as a flag icon. Although this is not essential, it is certainly convenient in that it permits easy recognition of any one country and extent. As a ‘note to self’, * is exact term checked, to be removed upon completion of the listing. The archives, with abbreviations, are as follows: BNA - British Newspaper Archive (UK, £), of 29 million pages available from around 250 British local newspaper titles (not as a rule nationals), dating from 1710 to 1954. Very good. Excellent and varied filters. Gall. - Gallica (France, Free), of 1.3 million newspaper and periodical pages to date. And overall over 3 million digital documents - books, manuscripts, maps, images. Not the easiest site to use, possibly caused with language difficulties. Tr. - Trove (Australia, Free), of 12.3 million pages covering a range of titles from every state and territory, from the earliest newspaper published in Australia in 1803 through to the mid 1950s. Very good. Excellent and varied filters. CA - Chronicling America (USA, Free), of 7.2 million pages from 1,270 titles from 1860-1922, of 23 select states. Good, but basic. Lacks the capacity to use ‘not’ terms. De. - Delpher (Netherlands, Free), of more than 100 million pages from Dutch newspapers, books and magazines. NA - NewspaperArchive.com (USA, $), of 130 million pages (newspaper and periodicals) dating from 1607 to the present day, with papers from all American states and eleven other countries, including the UK (some 800 titles). Pleasing. The main drawback is that it lack a search by picture. Ne. Newspapers.com (USA, $), of 11,200+ papers, with 451 million pages(!) from the 1700s–2000s PP - Papers Past (New Zealand), of three million freely-available pages from 83 digitised New Zealand newspapers and periodicals covering the period 1839 to 1945. UKPO - United Kingdom Press Online (UK, £), of over 2 million pages from some of the UK’s biggest selling popular newspapers of the 20th and 21st centuries. Pleasing. NYT - The New York Times (USA, $) dating back to 1851. Other Archives: Vogue. Does anyone have any (institutional?) access to the Vogue fashion archive? It costs a ridiculous $1575 as an individual researcher! As can be seen, there is a mix of free and paid content. Simply stated, there is no discernible difference in quality between the free and paid, simply choice of content. With the aid of filters, which differs slightly, this makes for most convenient research. Some content, owned by the paper, is reserved for their own distribution. However, even here, even as excerpts, which are free (of which the extent varies), without seeing the whole page or even story, much can still be done; it is certainly not essential to subscribe to these paid instances! Part 1 1. Houndstooth Part 2 2. Dogtooth 3. Chicken’s Foot 4. Pied de Poule 5. Puppytooth 6. Pepita Part 3 7. Shepherd’s Check/Plaid/Maud/Tartan 8. Gun Club Check 9. Prince of Wales Check 10. Glenurquhart Check Part 4 11. Border Tartan/Plaid/Drab/Check 12. Falkirk Tartan 13. Northumberland Tartan 14. Galashiels Grey 15. Four and Four 16. Star Checks 17. Crow's Foot Part 1 1. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Houndstooth’ and Variants A simple listing of all instances of the specific term ‘houndstooth’ and variants. Note that near relations, of variants with hyphens, gaps and apostrophes of the word such as ‘hounds-tooth’, ‘hounds tooth’, ‘hound’s tooth’ etc are included (but not related terms such as ‘dog-tooth’, or ‘dog tooth’ etc, of which I compile its own separate listing). Where the word ‘check’, in association with the pattern, is used (as with ‘houndstooth check’), this is listed too. ‘Twill’, ‘tweeds’ and ‘plaids’ is also a useful search. Other good terms include ‘designs’ and ‘patterns’. And creative ways too, with a f replacing a s, as the OCR misreads (some outlets are better than others), and in times past a long ‘s’ stood for ‘f’. There are 38 entries on NA on this alone. Faux associations: ‘As clean (or white) as a hound’s tooth’. Also on occasion as ‘sharp’. (Popular expression in the US and UK, c. 1900s, albeit not known in the UK in modern-day times.) 1923? Delaware Daily County Times November 9 1923 p. 8 (Queried) (*houndstooth) Ne. 1925 The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 9 May 1925 p. 16 Article (*hound’s tooth) I have also seen some delightful reproductions of Glenurquhart, hound's tooth, and shepherd's checks, but all very small and neat. (the first reference of all, of (surprisingly) Australian origin, albeit referencing the UK) Tr. The Daily Mail (Brisbane, Qld.) Monday 11 May 1925 p. 8 Article (*hound’s tooth) Tr. Sedalia Capital Sunday May 31 1925 p. 8 (*hounds tooth) NA N.B. Note that the writer, Rex Cheney, refers to London fashions here, not US, hence this is effectively an UK reference. 1926 The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Wednesday 7 July 1926 p. 16 Article (*hound’s tooth checks) Tr. The Register (Adelaide, SA) Thursday 22 July 1926 p. 14 Article (*hound’s tooth checks) Tr. Huntingdon Daily News Friday, July 9, 1926 NA 1927 The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Tuesday 13 September 1927 p. 12 Article (*hound’s tooth)Tr. 1928 The Mail (Adelaide, SA) Saturday 21 July 1928 p. 30 Article (*hounds’ tooth) Tr. Chester Times August 13 1928 p. 9 Article (*hound’s-tooth design) NA 1929 The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Tuesday 2 April 1929 p. 15 Article (*hound’s tooth) Tr. 1930 The Yorkshire Evening Post, Friday 20 June 1930, p. 10 (*houndstooth check) (the first UK reference) The Pantagraph Bloomington, Illinois Thursday, September 11, 1930 p. 17 (*hounds-tooth) Ne. The Paducah Sun-Democrat Paducah, Kentucky Wednesday, October 29, 1930 p. 6 (*hounds-tooth) Ne. Belfast News-Letter, Thursday 6 November 1930, p. 12 (houndstooth) N.B. Note that the writer refers to UK fashions here, not US, hence this is effectively an UK reference. 1931 Cumberland Evening Times Wednesday, March 4, 1931 NA (*houndstooth) Evening Independent Tuesday, March 10, 1931, Massillon, Ohio (*houndstooth) NA Muscatine Journal and News Tribune Tuesday, March 10, 1931 (*houndstooth) NA Ottumwa Daily Courier Tuesday, March 10, 1931 (*houndstooth) NA Mason City Globe Gazette Tuesday, March 17, 1931 (*houndstooth) NA The Newburgh News March 18 1931 p. 5 (*houndstooth checks) Google Books The Daily Messenger Canadaigua Tuesday, March 17, 1931 p. 7 Ad (**hounds-tooth) NA Marion Star Wednesday, March 18, 1931 (*houndstooth checks) NA Montana Standard Thursday, March 19, 1931 (*houndstooth) NA Laredo Times Sunday, March 22, 1931 (*houndstooth) NA Canandaigua Daily Messenger Wednesday, March 25, 1931 (*houndstooth checks) NA Olean Times Wednesday, March 25, 1931 (*houndstooth) NA Chillicothe Constitution Tribune Thursday, March 26, 1931 (*houndstooth) Moniter-Index and and Democrat Thursday April 2 1931 (*hounds-tooth) NA Le Journal, 16 June 1931 (*houndtooth) (the first French reference) Gall. The Yorkshire Evening Post, Monday, August 17, 1931, p. 5 (*houndstooth check) BNA Bedfordshire Times and Independent, Friday 30 October 1931, p. 11 (houndstooth) BNA 1932 The Amarillo Globe March 16 1932 p. 16 Column (**hounds-tooth checks) NA Muscatine Journal and News Tribune Wednesday, March 16, 1932 (*houndstooth checks) NA Pella Chronicle Thursday, March 17, 1932 (*houndstooth checks) NA Paris Morning News Thursday, March 17, 1932, Paris, Texas (*houndstooth checks) NA The Lawrence Daily Journal World Thursday March 17 1932 p. 8 Column. (*houndstooth checks) NA The Herald Journal Thursday March 24 1933 p. 4 Column (houndstooth checks) NA Belfast Telegraph (NI), Thursday, 4 August 1932, p. 6 (*houndstooth) BNA Liverpool Echo, Thursday 4 August 1932, p. 5 (*houndstooth checks) BNA Aberdeen Press and Journal, Tuesday, August 16, 1932, p. 10 (*hounds-tooth design) (the first Scotland reference) BNA Amarillo Sunday News Globe Sunday, August 28, 1932 (*houndstooth) NA Galveston Daily News Wednesday, September 14, 1932 (*houndstooth) NA Lawrence Daily Journal World Wednesday, September 14, 1932 (*houndstooth) NA Pampa Daily News Thursday, September 15, 1932 (*houndstooth) NA Centralia Daily Chronicle Monday, September 19, 1932 (*houndstooth) NA El Paso Herald Post Friday, September 23, 1932 (*houndstooth) NA Evening Independent Friday, September 23, 1932 (*houndstooth) NA Boone News Republican Wednesday, September 28, 1932 (*houndstooth) NA Woodland Daily Democrat Thursday, September 29, 1932 (*houndstooth) NA Ottumwa Daily Courier Monday, October 3, 1932 (*houndstooth) NA Daily News Standard Tuesday, October 4, 1932 (*houndstooth) NA Santa Cruz Sentinel 6 October 1932, p. 15 CA The Observer 13 November 1932 p. 21 (the first reference in The Observer) (*hound’s-tooth checks) Ne. The Heights 7 December 1932 p. 2 Article CA Boston Heights Wednesday, December 7, 1932, Boston, Massachusetts (*houndstooth) NA Leeds Mercury, Tuesday, 20 December 1932, p. 4 (houndstooth) BNA 1933 Evening Star, January 15 1933 p. 7 (no day given) VERIFY COUNTRY The Stanford Daily (US) 3 February 1933 p. 13 Article The Tatler, Wednesday 8 February 1933, p. 49 (houndstooth) BNA The Stanford Daily (US) 24 February 1933 p. 13 Article (houndstooth) CA, NA Blytheville Courier News Tuesday, February 28, 1933, Blytheville, Arkansas (houndstooth) NA STOPPED HERE FOR US ENTRIES - THERE ARE 415 FOR 1930-1939! Thanet Advertiser, Friday 3 March 1933, p. 6 (houndstooth) BNA Dundee Evening Telegraph, Friday 10 March 1933, p. 3 (houndstooth) BNA The Hull Daily Mail, Friday, March 17, 1933, p. 77 (houndstooth) BNA Evening Star (US). March 24, 1933, p. B-10 Joplin News Herald Friday March 24 1933 p. 5 (hound’s tooth checks) NA Birmingham Daily Gazette, Friday 31 March 1933, p. 10 (houndstooth) BNA Dundee Evening Telegraph, Friday 7 April 1933, p. 11 (houndstooth) BNA Lancashire Evening Post, Monday 17 April 1933, p. 8 (houndstooth) BNA The Scotsman, Wednesday 26 April 1933, p. 17 (houndstooth) BNA Belfast News-Letter (NI), Thursday April 27 1933, p. 13 (*houndstooth checks) BNA The Northern Whig and Belfast Post, Thursday April 27 1933 (*houndstooth checks) BNA Birmingham Daily Gazette, Friday 2 June 1933, p. 8 (hound’s-tooth check) BNA Bournemouth Graphic, Friday 28 July 1933, p. 8 (houndstooth) BNA The Southern Reporter, Thursday August 3 1933, p. 7 (*houndstooth) BNA The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 3 August 1933 p. 4 Article Tr. The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Tuesday 8 August 1933 p. 7 Article Illustrated Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Tuesday 5 September 1933 p. 1 Advert Tr. Daily Herald, Wednesday 13 September 1933, p. 7 (houndstooth) BNA The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 14 September 1933 p. 14 Article Tr. The Sikeston Standard Wednesday November 14 1933 Ad (*hounds-tooth checks) NA The Evening Gazette, Xenia Thursday September 21 1933 p. 5 Ad (houndstooth checks) NA The Morning Avalanche Friday September 22 1933 p. 5 (*hounds tooth checks) NA St. Andrews Citizen, Saturday 23 September 1933, p. 1 (houndstooth) BNA The Daily Messenger Canadaigua Tuesday, March 17, 1933 p. 7 Ad (**hounds-tooth) NA The Midland Daily Telegraph, Friday, September 29, 1933 (*hounds-tooth) BNA Daily Standard (Brisbane, Qld.) Saturday 30 September 1933 p. 8 Article Illustrated Tr. Northern Daily Mail, Friday October 6 1933 p ? (houndstooth) BNA The Van Wert Daily Bulletin Monday October 9 1933 p. 3 Ad (*hounds tooth) NA The Van Wert Daily Bulletin Monday October 10 1933 p. 3 Ad (*hounds tooth) NA The New York Times October 16, 1933, p. 32 (The first reference in NYT) VERIFY NYT Evening Star. Friday October 20, 1933, Page A-6, Image 6 (hounds tooth) BNA Northern Daily Mail, Friday October 20 1933, p. 7? BNA The Sunderland Echo and Shipping Gazette, Thursday 26 October 1933, p. 6 (*houndstooth) BNA Northern Daily Mail, Friday October 27, 1933. (hounds-tooth, ambiguous, end of line) BNA Yorkshire Evening Post, Thursday 30 November 1933, p. 8 (houndstooth) BNA El Paso Herald Post Wednesday, December 4, 1933 p. 3 Ad (**hounds-tooth) NA The Southern Reporter, 7 December 1933, p. 9 (houndstooth) BNA Gloucester Citizen, Friday 15 December 1933, p. 9 (houndstooth) BNA Daily Herald, Friday 15 December 1933 p. 3 (houndstooth) BNA 1934 Belfast Telegraph (NI), Friday 2 February 1934, p. 10 (houndstooth) BNA Whitstable Times and Herne Bay Herald, Saturday 10 February 1934. p. 7 (houndstooth) BNA Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News, Friday 21 September 1934, p. 6 (houndstooth check) BNA The Observer, Sunday, October 28, 1934 (*hounds-tooth) (the second reference in The Observer) Ne. Advocate (Burnie, Tas.) Thursday 8 November 1934 p. 2 Article Tr. Tunberg, Karl. While the Crowd Cheers Macaulay, 1935. (*he wore… large hounds tooth check) N.B. The first book reference, although likely there are others preceding this. The Mail (Adelaide, SA) Saturday 19 January 1935 p. 19 Article Tr. St. Andrews Citizen, Saturday 19 January 1935, p. 3 (houndstooth) BNA The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 24 January 1935 p. 16 Advert Tr. Sporting Globe (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 2 March 1935 p 8 Article Illustrated Tr. Portsmouth Evening News, Monday 18 March 1935, p. 3 (houndstooth) BNA Morning Bulletin (Rockhampton, Qld.) Wednesday 3 April 1935 p 14 Advert Tr. Morning Bulletin (Rockhampton, Qld.) Wednesday 24 April 1935 p. 16 Advert Tr. Morning Bulletin (Rockhampton, Qld.) Wednesday 1 May 1935 p. 16 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Thursday 9 May 1935 p. 1 Advert Tr. Morning Bulletin (Rockhampton, Qld.) Wednesday 5 June 1935 p 14 Advert Tr. The Tatler and Bystander, February 8, 1936, p. 209 (houndstooth) BNA Lincolnshire Echo, Tuesday 10 March 1936, p. 3 (houndstooth) BNA The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Monday 30 March 1936 p. 2 Advert Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Monday 13 April 1936 p. 3 Advert Tr. The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Tuesday 14 April 1936 p. 18 Advert Tr. Northern Star (Lismore, NSW) Thursday 23 April 1936 p. 12 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Tuesday 28 April 1936 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Thursday 30 April 1936 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Biz (Fairfield, NSW) Friday 1 May 1936 p. 3 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Thursday 14 May 1936 p. 1 Advert Tr. Northern Star (Lismore, NSW) Thursday 14 May 1936 p. 13 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Thursday 27 August 1936 p. 23 Advert Tr. The Daily News (Perth, WA) Friday 18 September 1936 p. 8 Article Illustrated Tr. Southern Argus (Port Elliot, SA) Wednesday 10 February 1937 p. 5 Article Tr. Dundee Courier, Friday 26 February 1937, p. 14 (houndstooth) BNA The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 20 May 1937 p. 43 Advert Tr. The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Monday 21 June 1937 p. 3 Article Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Monday 21 June 1937 p. 5 Article Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 24 June 1937 p. 36 Advert Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 1 July 1937 p. 44 Advert Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 8 July 1937 p. 35 Advert Tr. The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Tuesday 17 August 1937 p. 3 Article Tr. The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Friday 8 October 1937 p. 9 Advert Tr. The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Monday 8 November 1937 p. 7 Article Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 18 November 1937 p. 23 Advert Tr. 1938 The Observer, Sunday, January 23, 1938 p. 20 (hounds-tooth) BNA The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Monday 31 January 1938 p. 5 Article Tr. The Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News, Friday, March 11, 1938, p. 459 (houndstooth) BNA Northern Star (Lismore, NSW) Wednesday 13 April 1938 p. 5 Advert Tr. Daily Advertiser (Wagga Wagga, NSW) Thursday 14 April 1938 p. 6 Advert Tr. Framlingham Weekly News, Saturday 23 April 1938, p. 7 (houndstooth) BNA. The Australian Women's Weekly Saturday 25 June 1938 p. 11 Article Illustrated Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Tuesday 16 August 1938 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Monday 22 August 1938 p. 2 Article Tr. The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Monday 29 August 1938 p. 9 Article Illustrated Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Wednesday 21 September 1938 p. 12 Advert Tr. The Daily News (Perth, WA) Monday 10 October 1938 p. 6 Article Tr. The Argus (Melbourne, Vic.) Wednesday 2 November 1938 p. 5 Article Illustrated Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 10 November 1938 p. 36 Advert Tr. Kent & Sussex Courier, Friday 11 November 1938, p. 12 (houndstooth) BNA Sevenoaks Chronicle and Kentish Advertiser, Friday 11 November 1938, p. 2 (houndstooth) BNA 1939 The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Wednesday 11 January 1939 p. 9 Advert Tr. Daily Mirror, Monday 30 January 1939, p. 23 (houndstooth) BNA The Newcastle Sun (NSW) Thursday 2 March 1939 p. 3 Article Illustrated Tr. The Courier-Mail (Brisbane, Qld.) Monday 6 March 1939 p. 2 Article Illustrated Tr. Daily Mercury (Mackay, Qld.) Wednesday 8 March 1939 p. 4 Article Illustrated Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Thursday 16 March 1939 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Sunday 19 March 1939 p. 10 Advert Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 23 March 1939 p. 16 Advert Tr. Newcastle Morning Herald and Miners' Advocate (NSW) Friday 24 March 1939 p. 17 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Tuesday 28 March 1939 p. 1 Advert Tr. Newcastle Morning Herald and Miners' Advocate (NSW) Friday 31 March 1939 p. 25 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Wednesday 5 April 1939 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Biz (Fairfield, NSW) Thursday 13 April 1939 p. 5 Advert Tr. Newcastle Morning Herald and Miners' Advocate (NSW) Friday 14 April 1939 p. 21 Advert Tr. The Biz (Fairfield, NSW) Thursday 20 April 1939 p. 5 Advert Tr. The Biz (Fairfield, NSW) Thursday 27 April 1939 p. 9 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Monday 22 May 1939 p. 4 Article Illustrated Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Monday 29 May 1939 p. 1 Advert Tr. Warwick Daily News (Qld.) Monday 29 May 1939 p. 2 Article Illustrated Tr. Daily Advertiser (Wagga Wagga, NSW) Monday 29 May 1939 p. 3 Article Illustrated Tr. The Corowa Free Press (NSW) Tuesday 30 May 1939 p. 1 Advert Tr. Wellington Times (NSW) Thursday 1 June 1939 p. 8 Article Illustrated Tr. Yass Tribune-Courier (NSW) Thursday 1 June 1939 p. 6 Article Illustrated Tr. Glen Innes Examiner (NSW) Saturday 3 June 1939 p. 7 Article Illustrated Tr. Pinnaroo and Border Times (SA) Thursday 8 June 1939 p. 3 Article Illustrated Tr. The Riverine Herald (Echuca, Vic. Moama, NSW;) Saturday 10 June 1939 p. 4 Article Illustrated Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Monday 12 June 1939 p. 1 Advert Tr. Kapunda Herald (SA) Thursday 15 June 1939 p. 4 Article Illustrated Tr. The St George Call (Kogarah, NSW) Friday 16 June 1939 p. 5 Article Illustrated Tr. The Australian Women's Weekly Saturday 17 June 1939 p. 8 Literature Illustrated Tr. Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Wednesday 21 June 1939 p. 8 Article Illustrated Tr. Advocate (Burnie, Tas.) Friday 23 June 1939 p. 9 Article Illustrated Tr. The West Wyalong Advocate (NSW) Friday 30 June 1939 p. 6 Article Illustrated Tr. Goulburn Evening Penny Post (NSW) Thursday 6 July 1939 p. 3 Article Illustrated Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Monday 10 July 1939 p. 11 Advert Tr. Kilmore Free Press (Kilmore, Vic.) Thursday 13 July 1939 p. 8 Article Illustrated Tr. Coolgardie Miner (WA) Thursday 13 July 1939 p. 5 Article Illustrated Tr. Manjimup Mail and Jardee-Pemberton-Northcliffe Press (WA) Thursday 13 July 1939 p. 3 Article Illustrated Tr. Midlands Advocate (Perth, WA) Friday 14 July 1939 p. 3 Article Illustrated Tr. The Weekly Gazette (Goomalling, WA) Friday 14 July 1939 p. 3 Article Illustrated Tr. South Western Advertiser (Perth, WA) Friday 14 July 1939 p. 3 Article Illustrated Tr. Toodyay Herald (WA) Friday 14 July 1939 p. 4 Article Illustrate Tr. The Mullewa Mail (WA) Saturday 15 July 1939 p. 3 Article Illustrated Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Sunday 16 July 1939 p. 9 Advert Tr. Maryborough Chronicle, Wide Bay and Burnett Advertiser (Qld) Tuesday 18 July 1939 p. 2 Article Illustrated Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Monday 7 August 1939 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Sunday 20 August 1939 p. 5 Article Illustrated Tr. Bruce Rock Post and Corrigin and Narembeen Guardian (WA) Thursday 24 August 1939 p. 6 Article Illustrated Tr. The Broadcaster (Fairfield, NSW) Thursday 24 August 1939 p. 4 Article Illustrated Tr . The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Thursday 31 August 1939 p. 28 Advert Tr. Coolgardie Miner (WA) Thursday 31 August 1939 p. 8 Article Illustrated Tr. Northern Times (Carnarvon, WA) Friday 1 September 1939 p. 5 Article Illustrated Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Thursday 7 September 1939 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW) Friday 29 September 1939 p. 1 Advert Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 26 October 1939 p. 4 Advert Tr. The Tribune (Philippines) Friday 27 October 1939 p. 13 Article Illustrated Tr. South Coast Bulletin (Southport, Qld.) Friday 17 November 1939 p. 2 Advert Tr. South Coast Bulletin (Southport, Qld.) Friday 24 November 1939 p. 4 Advert Tr. The Daily News (Perth, WA) Friday 1 December 1939 p. 13 Advert Tr. South Coast Bulletin (Southport, Qld.) Friday 1 December 1939 p. 5 Advert Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 7 December 1939 p. 4 Advert Tr. South Coast Bulletin (Southport, Qld.) Friday 8 December 1939 p. 2 Advert Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Saturday 9 December 1939 p. 16 Advert Tr. The Herald (Melbourne, Vic.) Thursday 14 December 1939 p. 4 Advert Tr. South Coast Bulletin (Southport, Qld.) Friday 15 December 1939 p. 2 Advert Tr. The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Wednesday 20 December 1939 p. 18 Advert Tr. South Coast Bulletin (Southport, Qld.) Friday 22 December 1939 p. 4 Advert Tr. South Coast Bulletin (Southport, Qld.) Friday 29 December 1939 p. 8 Advert Tr. Selected, of special interest beyond the date range above: Oil City Blizzard Saturday, February 19, 1944 p. 2 (*houndstooth... twill) (the first reference to twill in the US) NA The Guardian p. 25 1950 (unclear clipping) (the first reference in The Guardian) Ne. Table
Observations What is quite surprising, given an assumed UK (Scotland?) beginning, is that there is no evidence for this at all! Indeed, Australia is the first reference, of 1925 (albeit these are all references discerned from the UK!), followed by the US, of 1928, before the UK, of 1930. However, given the Australian links to the UK, the term was surely exported, but if so I cannot find it! Further, there are more than the one initial reference to Australia here, and of which there is then extensive usage in the following years, as there is by the US and UK. From the relatively few initial references, of 1925, and beginning in 1931, the term then really took off. |
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